Next day the intense
cold returned, and a severe north-wester made it almost impossible to
keep on deck. Every wave that dashed over us, left its traces behind in
a sheet of ice spread over the deck, and in the icicles which were
hanging along the bulwarks, and formed a fringe to the boats which were
hanging inside the ship; one poor passenger, with a splendid beard, told
us he found it quite hard and stiff, and we could have told him how much
we admired the icicles which were hanging to it. The thermometer,
however, was only at 15 deg., it being the wind that made it so intensely
cold. I did not get on deck, for, owing to the coating of ice, walking
on it became a service of some danger; and I did my best to keep Papa
from going up, though he often insisted on doing so, to enjoy the beauty
of the scene. The captain says that it is sometimes most trying to be on
this coast in winter, as the thermometer, instead of being 15 deg. above
zero as it was then, is often 15 deg. below, when the ropes and everything
become frozen. This cold lasted till Monday, when we were clear of "the
banks," and fairly launched into the wide Atlantic. The wind continued
to blow strongly from the north-west, with a considerable amount of sea,
which put an end to my even thinking of going on deck, but Papa
persevered, and every day passed many hours there, walking up and down
and enjoying it much, especially as it was daily getting warmer.
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